Around 250 million years ago, during the Permean period of geologic history, this massive inland sea began an evaporation process of periodic flooding and drying leaving behind deposits of shale, siltstones, and sandstones, interspersed with layers of gypsum and anhydrite. These deposits, known as red beds, turn red, like iron oxide, when exposed to oxygen. The porous underground of the Red Hills gave rise to another geological oddity on the Great Plains. Numerous caves thread their way through the red beds. Most of the caves tend to be small and relatively unstable, but home to a variety of bats and salamanders often studied by naturalists, scientists, teachers and students from universities throughout the region. Many of the residents in these unique ecosystems tend toward rare or endangered species. This delicate ecosystem requires a limit to human visitation to preserve the fragile underground structures.
Also known as the Gyp Hills, this secondary name acknowledges the large natural deposits of gypsum in the area. The dissolution of underlying gypsum beds contributes to the formation of sinkholesas part of the scenic vistas and small steep canyons within the Red Hills. The best-known sinkholes in the area, Big Basin and Little Basin continue to draw annual visitors. Located near Ashland in Clark County, the 1,818 acre Big Basin Prairie Preserve continues to be managed by Kansas Department of Wildlife, Parks, and Tourism, having acquired it from the Nature Conservancy in 1978 on the condition that it be operated as a nature preserve. The main features include St. Jacob’s Well, a water-filled sinkhole which lies in the Little Basin, and the Big Basin sinkhole created a lush mile-wide crater-like depression.
The Preserve reached National Natural Landmark designation while being added to the National Registry in December of 1978.
Historically, the area offered a place to camp and rest for the Northern Cheyenne People during their exodus north. In the fall of 1878, more than 300 hundred Northern Cheyenne People began the extraordinary journey back to their native lands in Montana.
Today, the Preserve takes its visitors on a trip back in time, as the prairie grasses whisper and a herd of bison freely graze near the water at St. Jacob’s Well. Other animals that use the Preserve for their shelter and sustenance include White-tailed deer, wild turkey, prairie voles, and jack rabbits. This unique region welcomes frequent visitors to drive through the preserve any time of the year.
Information used for this story came from the Kansas Country Living Magazine. For High Plains Public Radio, I’m Debra Bolton in Manhattan Kansas.
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High Plains History is a production of High Plains Public Radio.
